Expedition
Shimshal valley, Gojal (Upper Hunza)
Minglik Sar
- Duration
- 19 days
- Highest point
- 6,050 m
- Difficulty
- Demanding
- Season
- Jul–Sept
Price to be confirmed
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Expedition · Shimshal valley, Gojal (Upper Hunza)
Yazghil Sar
An isolated snow and ice peak just under 6,000 m in the Shimshal valley, described as a good first Karakoram summit.
- Duration
- 18 days
- Highest point
- 5,964 m
- Difficulty
- Demanding
- Season
- July–August
- Price
- Price to be confirmed
Photo: Goharanwar14 · CC BY-SA 4.0
Overview
Yazghil Sar stands between the Yukshin Garden and Yazghil glaciers above the Shimshal valley. It is an isolated snow and ice summit just under 6,000 m.
SummitPost describes it as relatively easy, ideal as a first Karakoram peak or as acclimatisation for harder objectives. The first recorded ascent, in 1988, followed the northwest face and north ridge.
As with other Shimshal objectives, the trip combines village life, glacier approaches and a self-contained base camp well away from the busier Baltoro routes.
- A quieter Shimshal objective away from the main trekking routes
- Glacier scenery between the Yukshin Garden and Yazghil glaciers
- Described as a good first Karakoram summit
Itinerary
Days 1–2
Islamabad: briefing and travel to Gilgit
Timing varies with flights, road and weather conditions.
Day 3
Drive to Gojal and jeep to Shimshal village
Day 4
Rest and preparation in Shimshal
Days 5–7
Approach trek to base camp below the Yazghil glacier system
Route and camp names to be confirmed.
Days 8–9
Acclimatisation and skills practice at base camp
Days 10–11
Acclimatisation rotation on the mountain
Days 12–14
Summit window and weather/reserve days
Days 15–16
Trek out to Shimshal village
Day 17
Jeep and drive to Gilgit
Day 18
Return to Islamabad
Flight or road, subject to weather.
Practical information
- Objective
- Yazghil Sar (5,964 m)
- Experience required
- Previous experience on glaciated terrain with crampons and ice axe
- Basic crevasse-travel and rope skills
- Suitable for
- Mountaineers
What’s included
Included
- Sample support/logistics concept: ground transport and jeeps, base-camp logistics, cook/kitchen team, porters for the approach, and permit paperwork handled through a registered operator
- Sample climbing support concept: climbing guide and group ropes
Not included
- Climbing/trekking permit fees and any royalty (paid to the GB Tourism Department)
- Personal climbing equipment
- Insurance including mountaineering and helicopter rescue cover
- International flights and Pakistan visa
- Community or conservancy fees, if applicable (to be confirmed)
What to bring
Essential
- Insulated mountaineering boots compatible with crampons
- Crampons and a mountaineering ice axe
- Climbing harness, helmet, ascender, belay/abseil device and prusik loops
- Expedition down jacket and layered insulation for summit night
- Sleeping bag rated well below freezing (exact rating to be confirmed)
- Glacier glasses, high-factor sun protection and headtorch
Optional and useful
- Trekking poles
- Camera with spare batteries (cold drains them quickly)
- Solar charger or power bank
- Personal snacks and electrolyte sachets
Good to know
Important notes and restrictions
- Permits: official climbing and trekking permits are issued through the Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Department (applications normally go via a registered tour operator). TKO does not issue permits. Royalty, permit, fee and insurance rules are regulatory information that changes and must be confirmed before publication.
- Secondary sources (CKNP visitor information, ExplorersWeb, operator pages) indicate peaks below 6,500 m have generally needed a trekking permit/fee rather than a full mountaineering permit with royalty and liaison officer. Sources conflict; confirm the current rule with the GB Tourism Department.
- Insurance: travellers would need cover that explicitly includes mountaineering at this altitude and helicopter rescue in Pakistan; generic travel cover usually does not. Confirm current requirements before publication.
- Glacier conditions in the Shimshal area change; recent expedition reports note glacier surges affecting access elsewhere in the valley.
Route and region
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