Expedition
Hushe valley, Khaplu
Gondogoro Peak
- Duration
- 17 days
- Highest point
- 5,650 m
- Difficulty
- Demanding
- Season
- Jun–Sept
Price to be confirmed
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Expedition · Hushe valley, Khaplu, Skardu
Laila Peak
A sharply pointed snow and ice peak above the Gondogoro Glacier in the Hushe valley, often described as one of the most striking summits of the Karakoram.
- Duration
- 22 days
- Highest point
- 6,096 m
- Difficulty
- Very demanding
- Season
- June–August
- Price
- Price to be confirmed
Photo: Maqsood aktar · CC BY-SA 4.0
Overview
Laila Peak rises above the Gondogoro Glacier at the head of the Hushe valley in Ghanche. Its slender, symmetrical summit pyramid is a familiar sight to trekkers heading for the Gondogoro La, and it has attracted climbers, skiers and photographers for decades.
The approach follows the Hushe valley from Khaplu and continues onto the Gondogoro Glacier. A recent American Alpine Journal report places a base camp at around 4,150 m on the popular Gondogoro La trekking route.
Sources describe a serious snow and ice objective rather than a walk-up. It suits climbers who are already comfortable on glaciated terrain and steep snow. Ascents have been rare, and conditions vary a great deal from season to season.
- One of the most recognisable summit shapes in the Karakoram
- Approach through the Hushe valley, gateway to the Masherbrum range
- Base camp on the Gondogoro La trekking route
- Views across the Gondogoro Glacier and surrounding peaks
Itinerary
Days 1–2
Islamabad: briefing and onward travel to Skardu
Timing varies with flights, road and weather conditions.
Day 3
Skardu: preparation and equipment check
Day 4
Jeep to Khaplu and on to Hushe village
Road conditions and checkpoints can affect timing.
Days 5–7
Trek up the Hushe valley towards the Gondogoro Glacier
Day 8
Arrive at base camp
AAJ reporting places a base camp at about 4,150 m on the Gondogoro La route.
Highest point: 4,150 m
Days 9–10
Rest, acclimatisation and skills review at base camp
Days 11–15
Acclimatisation rotations on the mountain
Exact camps to be confirmed by the climbing team.
Days 16–19
Summit window and weather/reserve days
Summit timing depends entirely on conditions.
Days 20–21
Clear base camp and trek out to Hushe; jeep to Skardu
Day 22
Return to Islamabad
Flight or road, subject to weather.
Practical information
- Objective
- Laila Peak (6,096 m)
- Experience required
- Previous experience on glaciated terrain and steep snow/ice with crampons and ice axe
- Experience of multi-day expedition life at altitude
- Rope skills: fixed-line ascent and abseil
- Suitable for
- Mountaineers
What’s included
Included
- Sample support/logistics concept: ground transport and jeeps, base-camp logistics, cook/kitchen team, porters for the approach, and permit paperwork handled through a registered operator
- Sample climbing support concept: experienced climbing guide and shared group climbing equipment such as fixed lines
Not included
- Climbing/trekking permit fees and any royalty (paid to the GB Tourism Department)
- Personal climbing equipment
- Insurance including mountaineering and helicopter rescue cover
- International flights and Pakistan visa
- Extra hotel nights caused by flight or road delays
What to bring
Essential
- Insulated mountaineering boots compatible with crampons
- Crampons and a mountaineering ice axe
- Climbing harness, helmet, ascender, belay/abseil device and prusik loops
- Expedition down jacket and layered insulation for summit night
- Sleeping bag rated well below freezing (exact rating to be confirmed)
- Glacier glasses, high-factor sun protection and headtorch
Optional and useful
- Trekking poles
- Camera with spare batteries (cold drains them quickly)
- Solar charger or power bank
- Personal snacks and electrolyte sachets
- Lightweight ski-mountaineering kit only if a ski objective is agreed
Good to know
Important notes and restrictions
- Permits: official climbing and trekking permits are issued through the Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Department (applications normally go via a registered tour operator). TKO does not issue permits. Royalty, permit, fee and insurance rules are regulatory information that changes and must be confirmed before publication.
- Secondary sources (CKNP visitor information, ExplorersWeb, operator pages) indicate peaks below 6,500 m have generally needed a trekking permit/fee rather than a full mountaineering permit with royalty and liaison officer. Sources conflict; confirm the current rule with the GB Tourism Department.
- Insurance: travellers would need cover that explicitly includes mountaineering at this altitude and helicopter rescue in Pakistan; generic travel cover usually does not. Confirm current requirements before publication.
- Central Karakoram National Park: secondary sources describe a core zone (including the Baltoro and the Hushe approaches) needing a park/trekking permit, registered porters and guides, and no solo travel. Confirm current rules.
- SummitPost describes the Gondogoro approach as within a restricted zone requiring a permit and licensed guide; confirm current status.
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