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The Karakoram Odyssey
Climber beside orange expedition tents at a rocky camp below a snow-covered peak

Field notes

Journal

Stories, routes and practical notes on travelling in Pakistan.

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Festival ·

Milk, wildflowers, walnut leaves and days of dancing: how the Kalash of Chitral welcome spring and send their herds to the summer pastures.

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  • Festival

    Shandur: polo on the roof of the world

    Every summer, Chitral and Gilgit-Baltistan meet on a high mountain pass at around 3,700 metres to play freestyle polo, with music, camping and tens of thousands of spectators.

  • Festival

    Ginani: Hunza celebrates the first harvest

    When the first crop ripens, Hunza gives thanks: music at the forts, the Mir in the fields, the new grain cooked and shared, and dancing in the courtyard of Baltit Fort.

  • Festival

    Takhum Rezi: sowing the seed in Ghizer

    In the valleys of Ghizer, spring opens with a symbolic ploughing, polo, bonfires on the mountainsides and a shared dish of diram passed from house to house.

  • Festival

    Uchal: the Kalash give thanks for the harvest

    When the shepherds come down from the high pastures with cheese and butter, the Kalash valleys celebrate the wheat and barley harvest with offerings and dancing through the night.

  • Festival

    Chawmos: the Kalash New Year at midwinter

    The longest and most sacred of the Kalash festivals: two weeks of purification, offerings for the ancestors, bonfires and torchlit processions ending at the winter solstice.

  • Festival

    Mayfang: Baltistan lights the longest night

    On the winter solstice, villages across Baltistan carry fire down from the mountainsides, swing burning torches and light bonfires to mark the end of the longest night.

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