Expedition
Hushe valley, Khaplu
Laila Peak
- Duration
- 22 days
- Highest point
- 6,096 m
- Difficulty
- Very demanding
- Season
- Jun–Aug
Price to be confirmed
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Expedition · Baltoro, Shigar, Skardu
Lobsang Spire
A granite spire of about 5,700 m above the Baltoro Glacier near Broad Peak, first climbed in 1983 by a big-wall route. Technical rock climbing only.
- Duration
- 24 days
- Highest point
- 5,707 m
- Difficulty
- Very demanding
- Season
- June–August
- Price
- Price to be confirmed
Photo: Guilhem Vellut from Paris · CC BY-SA 2.0
Overview
Lobsang Spire is a sharp granite tower above the Baltoro Glacier, close to Broad Peak. Doug Scott's team made the first ascent in 1983 by the South Pillar, in alpine style. It was one of the first Karakoram routes to use big-wall aid techniques and portaledges.
Later expeditions met very hard aid climbing and loose rock on the south face. This is a technical rock objective for experienced big-wall or alpine rock climbers, not a guided summit for general mountaineers.
The approach follows the classic Baltoro route from Askole, so the trip also takes in some of the Karakoram's greatest glacier scenery.
- Historic 1983 big-wall route by Doug Scott's team
- Granite climbing above the Baltoro Glacier
- The classic Baltoro approach from Askole
Itinerary
Days 1–2
Islamabad: briefing and onward travel to Skardu
Timing varies with flights, road and weather conditions.
Day 3
Skardu: preparation and equipment check
Day 4
Jeep through Shigar to Askole
Road conditions vary.
Days 5–9
Trek up the Braldu and Baltoro glacier towards the spire
Day 10
Establish base camp
Days 11–13
Acclimatisation and route reconnaissance
Days 14–19
Climbing window: fixing, wall climbing and weather/reserve days
Days 20–23
Trek out to Askole and jeep to Skardu
Day 24
Return to Islamabad
Flight or road, subject to weather.
Practical information
- Objective
- Lobsang Spire (5,707 m)
- Experience required
- Extensive technical rock climbing experience, including aid or big-wall climbing
- Self-sufficiency on remote alpine rock
- Previous expedition experience at altitude
- Suitable for
- Mountaineers
What’s included
Included
- Sample support/logistics concept: ground transport and jeeps, base-camp logistics, cook/kitchen team, porters for the approach, and permit paperwork handled through a registered operator
Not included
- Climbing/trekking permit fees and any royalty (paid to the GB Tourism Department)
- Personal climbing equipment
- Insurance including mountaineering and helicopter rescue cover
- International flights and Pakistan visa
- Technical climbing rack and ropes (team-supplied in this concept)
What to bring
Essential
- Rock shoes plus approach and mountaineering boots
- Harness, helmet, belay/abseil devices and personal anchor system
- Team technical rack and ropes, agreed with the climbing team in advance
- Crampons and ice axe for snow and glacier sections of the approach
- Portaledge or bivouac gear where the planned route requires it
- Sleeping bag rated well below freezing (exact rating to be confirmed)
Optional and useful
- Trekking poles
- Camera with spare batteries (cold drains them quickly)
- Solar charger or power bank
- Personal snacks and electrolyte sachets
Good to know
Important notes and restrictions
- Permits: official climbing and trekking permits are issued through the Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Department (applications normally go via a registered tour operator). TKO does not issue permits. Royalty, permit, fee and insurance rules are regulatory information that changes and must be confirmed before publication.
- Secondary sources (CKNP visitor information, ExplorersWeb, operator pages) indicate peaks below 6,500 m have generally needed a trekking permit/fee rather than a full mountaineering permit with royalty and liaison officer. Sources conflict; confirm the current rule with the GB Tourism Department.
- Insurance: travellers would need cover that explicitly includes mountaineering at this altitude and helicopter rescue in Pakistan; generic travel cover usually does not. Confirm current requirements before publication.
- Central Karakoram National Park: secondary sources describe a core zone (including the Baltoro and the Hushe approaches) needing a park/trekking permit, registered porters and guides, and no solo travel. Confirm current rules.
- Technical rock objective: not suitable as a general guided expedition product without specialist review.
Route and region
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