Expedition
Hushe valley, Khaplu
Laila Peak
- Duration
- 22 days
- Highest point
- 6,096 m
- Difficulty
- Very demanding
- Season
- Jun–Aug
Price to be confirmed
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Expedition · Shigar, Skardu
Khosar Gang
The highest peak of the Shigar valley, close to Skardu, widely used as an introductory or acclimatisation peak of around 6,000 m.
- Duration
- 15 days
- Highest point
- 6,040 m
- Difficulty
- Demanding
- Season
- June–August
- Price
- Price to be confirmed
Photo: Shahid Rao · CC BY-SA 4.0
Overview
Khosar Gang (also Koser Gunge) rises above the Shigar valley about 35–45 km from Skardu, which gives it one of the shortest approaches of any peak of its height in Baltistan. Climbs start from the village of Sildi, and sources place base camp at about 3,800 m.
Operators describe the route as glaciated snow and ice with some rocky sections, moderately difficult in places. Professional climbers also use it for acclimatisation. Its climbing history reaches back to the Workman expedition of 1899, and in 2022 it received a first winter ascent.
- Short approach from Skardu
- The Shigar valley's highest peak
- Historic summit first reached in 1899
- Base camp reached in a day or two from the road
Itinerary
Days 1–2
Islamabad: briefing and onward travel to Skardu
Timing varies with flights, road and weather conditions.
Day 3
Skardu: preparation; drive to Shigar and Sildi
Days 4–5
Trek to base camp
Sources place base camp at about 3,800 m.
Highest point: 3,800 m
Days 6–7
Rest, acclimatisation and skills practice
Days 8–10
Acclimatisation rotations
Camps to be confirmed.
Days 11–13
Summit window and weather/reserve days
Day 14
Descend to Sildi and drive to Skardu
Day 15
Return to Islamabad
Flight or road, subject to weather.
Practical information
- Objective
- Khosar Gang (6,040 m)
- Experience required
- Previous experience on glaciated terrain with crampons and ice axe
- Basic rope skills
- Suitable for
- Mountaineers
What’s included
Included
- Sample support/logistics concept: ground transport and jeeps, base-camp logistics, cook/kitchen team, porters for the approach, and permit paperwork handled through a registered operator
- Sample climbing support concept: climbing guide and group ropes
Not included
- Climbing/trekking permit fees and any royalty (paid to the GB Tourism Department)
- Personal climbing equipment
- Insurance including mountaineering and helicopter rescue cover
- International flights and Pakistan visa
- Extra hotel nights caused by flight or road delays
What to bring
Essential
- Insulated mountaineering boots compatible with crampons
- Crampons and a mountaineering ice axe
- Climbing harness, helmet, ascender, belay/abseil device and prusik loops
- Expedition down jacket and layered insulation for summit night
- Sleeping bag rated well below freezing (exact rating to be confirmed)
- Glacier glasses, high-factor sun protection and headtorch
Optional and useful
- Trekking poles
- Camera with spare batteries (cold drains them quickly)
- Solar charger or power bank
- Personal snacks and electrolyte sachets
Good to know
Important notes and restrictions
- Permits: official climbing and trekking permits are issued through the Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Department (applications normally go via a registered tour operator). TKO does not issue permits. Royalty, permit, fee and insurance rules are regulatory information that changes and must be confirmed before publication.
- Secondary sources (CKNP visitor information, ExplorersWeb, operator pages) indicate peaks below 6,500 m have generally needed a trekking permit/fee rather than a full mountaineering permit with royalty and liaison officer. Sources conflict; confirm the current rule with the GB Tourism Department.
- Insurance: travellers would need cover that explicitly includes mountaineering at this altitude and helicopter rescue in Pakistan; generic travel cover usually does not. Confirm current requirements before publication.
- Sources name July as the most popular month; avalanche risk turned back a 2022 spring attempt.
Route and region
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