Expedition
Naltar valley
Shani Peak
- Duration
- 16 days
- Highest point
- 5,887 m
- Difficulty
- Very demanding
- Season
- Jun–Sept
Price to be confirmed
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Expedition · Naltar valley
Chari Khand
A complex, rarely climbed peak at the head of the Naltar valley, attempted by expeditions since the 1950s.
- Duration
- 18 days
- Highest point
- 5,886 m
- Difficulty
- Very demanding
- Season
- June–September
- Price
- Price to be confirmed
Photo: Akbar Khan Niazi · CC BY-SA 4.0
Overview
Chari Khand stands at the end of the Naltar valley near Gilgit. The American Alpine Journal records an attempt as early as 1955, abandoned when the rock became too steep for loaded climbers. A 1995 British expedition reached about 5,400 m on the southwest face before warm conditions turned them back.
Sources describe a complex mountain with few, if any, documented ascents. It is an exploratory objective for experienced alpinists rather than a guided summit.
- Exploratory climbing in the upper Naltar valley
- Documented attempts since the 1950s
- Road-accessible starting point compared with Baltoro objectives
Itinerary
Days 1–2
Islamabad: briefing and travel to Gilgit
Timing varies with flights, road and weather conditions.
Day 3
Jeep to Naltar valley
Days 4–5
Approach to the head of the valley
Days 6–7
Establish base camp; reconnaissance
Days 8–11
Acclimatisation and route reconnaissance
Line chosen according to conditions.
Days 12–15
Summit attempt window and weather/reserve days
Day 16
Clear base camp and trek out
Day 17
Drive to Gilgit
Day 18
Return to Islamabad
Flight or road, subject to weather.
Practical information
- Objective
- Chari Khand (5,886 m)
- Experience required
- Independent alpine climbing experience on rock, snow and ice
- Comfort with exploratory objectives and uncertain route information
- Suitable for
- Mountaineers
What’s included
Included
- Sample support/logistics concept: ground transport and jeeps, base-camp logistics, cook/kitchen team, porters for the approach, and permit paperwork handled through a registered operator
Not included
- Climbing/trekking permit fees and any royalty (paid to the GB Tourism Department)
- Personal climbing equipment
- Insurance including mountaineering and helicopter rescue cover
- International flights and Pakistan visa
- Climbing guide services (exploratory objective; team climbs independently in this concept)
What to bring
Essential
- Insulated mountaineering boots compatible with crampons
- Crampons and a mountaineering ice axe
- Climbing harness, helmet, ascender, belay/abseil device and prusik loops
- Expedition down jacket and layered insulation for summit night
- Sleeping bag rated well below freezing (exact rating to be confirmed)
- Glacier glasses, high-factor sun protection and headtorch
Optional and useful
- Trekking poles
- Camera with spare batteries (cold drains them quickly)
- Solar charger or power bank
- Personal snacks and electrolyte sachets
- Light rock rack if a rock line is chosen
Good to know
Important notes and restrictions
- Permits: official climbing and trekking permits are issued through the Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Department (applications normally go via a registered tour operator). TKO does not issue permits. Royalty, permit, fee and insurance rules are regulatory information that changes and must be confirmed before publication.
- Secondary sources (CKNP visitor information, ExplorersWeb, operator pages) indicate peaks below 6,500 m have generally needed a trekking permit/fee rather than a full mountaineering permit with royalty and liaison officer. Sources conflict; confirm the current rule with the GB Tourism Department.
- Insurance: travellers would need cover that explicitly includes mountaineering at this altitude and helicopter rescue in Pakistan; generic travel cover usually does not. Confirm current requirements before publication.
- Stonefall and warm-weather conditions were reported by the 1995 expedition; treat objective hazards as significant.
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