Expedition
Naltar valley
Shani Peak
- Duration
- 16 days
- Highest point
- 5,887 m
- Difficulty
- Very demanding
- Season
- Jun–Sept
Price to be confirmed
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Expedition · Naltar valley, Ishkoman valley
Twin Peaks (Naltar)
Paired summits of about 5,600–5,700 m above the upper Shani Glacier towards the Pakora Pass, with a recorded first ascent of South Twin in 1988–89.
- Duration
- 16 days
- Highest point
- 5,640 m
- Difficulty
- Very demanding
- Season
- June–September
- Price
- Price to be confirmed
Photo: Akbar Khan Niazi · CC BY-SA 4.0
Overview
The Twin Peaks rise above the upper Shani Glacier on the Naltar side of the Pakora Pass, which links Naltar with the Ishkoman valley. The American Alpine Journal records a first ascent of South Twin by its north face from a high camp on the upper Shani Glacier.
They could pair naturally with Naltar's other objectives, or with a crossing towards Ishkoman. Information is limited and comes mostly from expedition reports, so treat this as an exploratory candidate.
- Little-visited summits above the upper Shani Glacier
- Possible link with the Pakora Pass towards Ishkoman
- Recorded first ascent in an AAJ report
Itinerary
Days 1–2
Islamabad: briefing and travel to Gilgit
Timing varies with flights, road and weather conditions.
Day 3
Jeep to Naltar valley
Days 4–5
Approach towards the Shani Glacier
Days 6–7
Establish base camp; rest and acclimatisation
Days 8–10
Acclimatisation and move to a high camp on the upper glacier
AAJ reports a high camp on the upper Shani Glacier; elevation not given.
Days 11–13
Summit window and weather/reserve days
Day 14
Clear base camp and trek out to Naltar
Day 15
Drive to Gilgit
Day 16
Return to Islamabad
Flight or road, subject to weather.
Practical information
- Objective
- South Twin (5,640 m)
- Experience required
- Alpine mountaineering experience on snow and ice faces
- Glacier travel and crevasse-rescue skills
- Suitable for
- Mountaineers
What’s included
Included
- Sample support/logistics concept: ground transport and jeeps, base-camp logistics, cook/kitchen team, porters for the approach, and permit paperwork handled through a registered operator
Not included
- Climbing/trekking permit fees and any royalty (paid to the GB Tourism Department)
- Personal climbing equipment
- Insurance including mountaineering and helicopter rescue cover
- International flights and Pakistan visa
- Extra hotel nights caused by flight or road delays
What to bring
Essential
- Insulated mountaineering boots compatible with crampons
- Crampons and a mountaineering ice axe
- Climbing harness, helmet, ascender, belay/abseil device and prusik loops
- Expedition down jacket and layered insulation for summit night
- Sleeping bag rated well below freezing (exact rating to be confirmed)
- Glacier glasses, high-factor sun protection and headtorch
Optional and useful
- Trekking poles
- Camera with spare batteries (cold drains them quickly)
- Solar charger or power bank
- Personal snacks and electrolyte sachets
Good to know
Important notes and restrictions
- Permits: official climbing and trekking permits are issued through the Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Department (applications normally go via a registered tour operator). TKO does not issue permits. Royalty, permit, fee and insurance rules are regulatory information that changes and must be confirmed before publication.
- Secondary sources (CKNP visitor information, ExplorersWeb, operator pages) indicate peaks below 6,500 m have generally needed a trekking permit/fee rather than a full mountaineering permit with royalty and liaison officer. Sources conflict; confirm the current rule with the GB Tourism Department.
- Insurance: travellers would need cover that explicitly includes mountaineering at this altitude and helicopter rescue in Pakistan; generic travel cover usually does not. Confirm current requirements before publication.
- Naltar includes military facilities; access rules for foreign visitors should be confirmed.
Route and region
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