Expedition
Naltar valley
Chari Khand
- Duration
- 18 days
- Highest point
- 5,886 m
- Difficulty
- Very demanding
- Season
- Jun–Sept
Price to be confirmed
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Expedition · Naltar valley
Shani Peak
A steep multi-summit peak just under 5,900 m above the Shani Glacier near the Naltar Pass, with a long record of British and international expeditions.
- Duration
- 16 days
- Highest point
- 5,887 m
- Difficulty
- Very demanding
- Season
- June–September
- Price
- Price to be confirmed
Photo: Akbar Khan Niazi · CC BY-SA 4.0
Overview
Shani Peak rises above the Shani Glacier near the Naltar Pass, north of Gilgit. Reports in the American Alpine Journal and the Mount Everest Foundation record repeated expeditions since the 1980s, including new routes on its faces and a first ascent of its east summit.
Naltar's forested valley and road access make it one of the more reachable climbing areas in Gilgit-Baltistan. Shani itself is a serious mountaineering objective, not a trekking peak.
- Reached from Naltar, one of GB's more accessible climbing valleys
- Documented climbing history in the AAJ and MEF reports
- Shani Glacier and Naltar Pass landscapes
Itinerary
Days 1–2
Islamabad: briefing and travel to Gilgit
Timing varies with flights, road and weather conditions.
Day 3
Jeep to Naltar valley
Days 4–5
Approach trek towards the Shani Glacier
Days 6–7
Establish base camp; rest and acclimatisation
Days 8–10
Acclimatisation rotations
Camps to be confirmed by the climbing team.
Days 11–13
Summit window and weather/reserve days
Day 14
Clear base camp and trek out to Naltar
Day 15
Drive to Gilgit
Day 16
Return to Islamabad
Flight or road, subject to weather.
Practical information
- Objective
- Shani Peak (5,887 m)
- Experience required
- Alpine mountaineering experience on steep snow, ice and mixed ground
- Glacier travel and crevasse-rescue skills
- Suitable for
- Mountaineers
What’s included
Included
- Sample support/logistics concept: ground transport and jeeps, base-camp logistics, cook/kitchen team, porters for the approach, and permit paperwork handled through a registered operator
- Sample climbing support concept: experienced climbing guide and group technical equipment
Not included
- Climbing/trekking permit fees and any royalty (paid to the GB Tourism Department)
- Personal climbing equipment
- Insurance including mountaineering and helicopter rescue cover
- International flights and Pakistan visa
- Extra hotel nights caused by flight or road delays
What to bring
Essential
- Insulated mountaineering boots compatible with crampons
- Crampons and a mountaineering ice axe
- Climbing harness, helmet, ascender, belay/abseil device and prusik loops
- Expedition down jacket and layered insulation for summit night
- Sleeping bag rated well below freezing (exact rating to be confirmed)
- Glacier glasses, high-factor sun protection and headtorch
Optional and useful
- Trekking poles
- Camera with spare batteries (cold drains them quickly)
- Solar charger or power bank
- Personal snacks and electrolyte sachets
Good to know
Important notes and restrictions
- Permits: official climbing and trekking permits are issued through the Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Department (applications normally go via a registered tour operator). TKO does not issue permits. Royalty, permit, fee and insurance rules are regulatory information that changes and must be confirmed before publication.
- Secondary sources (CKNP visitor information, ExplorersWeb, operator pages) indicate peaks below 6,500 m have generally needed a trekking permit/fee rather than a full mountaineering permit with royalty and liaison officer. Sources conflict; confirm the current rule with the GB Tourism Department.
- Insurance: travellers would need cover that explicitly includes mountaineering at this altitude and helicopter rescue in Pakistan; generic travel cover usually does not. Confirm current requirements before publication.
- Naltar includes military facilities; access rules for foreign visitors should be confirmed.
Route and region
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