Expedition
Naltar valley
Shani Peak
- Duration
- 16 days
- Highest point
- 5,887 m
- Difficulty
- Very demanding
- Season
- Jun–Sept
Price to be confirmed
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Expedition · Naltar valley
Mehrbani Peak
A peak of about 5,600 m in the Naltar area near the Chaprot Pass, with recorded climbs on its summits from the 1980s.
- Duration
- 15 days
- Highest point
- 5,639 m
- Difficulty
- Demanding
- Season
- June–September
- Price
- Price to be confirmed
Photo: Syed Hussain Ali Gillani · CC BY-SA 4.0
Overview
Mehrbani Peak lies in the Naltar valley area near the Chaprot Pass, north of Gilgit. Sources give it as about 5,639 m. Wikipedia also lists it under the name Khaitar Peak.
A 1989 American Alpine Journal report describes a new route on the northwest face of its north summit, as well as ascents of neighbouring summits from the Shani Glacier. It is a lower Naltar objective, but still a technical alpine one.
- Lower-altitude Naltar objective near the Chaprot Pass
- Recorded routes on its north summit and neighbouring peaks
- Short road approach from Gilgit
Itinerary
Days 1–2
Islamabad: briefing and travel to Gilgit
Timing varies with flights, road and weather conditions.
Day 3
Jeep to Naltar valley
Days 4–5
Approach trek and establish base camp
Days 6–7
Acclimatisation and skills practice
Days 8–9
Acclimatisation rotation
Days 10–12
Summit window and weather/reserve days
Day 13
Clear base camp and trek out to Naltar
Day 14
Drive to Gilgit
Day 15
Return to Islamabad
Flight or road, subject to weather.
Practical information
- Objective
- Mehrbani Peak (5,639 m)
- Experience required
- Alpine mountaineering experience on snow and ice
- Glacier travel and rope skills
- Suitable for
- Mountaineers
What’s included
Included
- Sample support/logistics concept: ground transport and jeeps, base-camp logistics, cook/kitchen team, porters for the approach, and permit paperwork handled through a registered operator
- Sample climbing support concept: climbing guide and group ropes
Not included
- Climbing/trekking permit fees and any royalty (paid to the GB Tourism Department)
- Personal climbing equipment
- Insurance including mountaineering and helicopter rescue cover
- International flights and Pakistan visa
- Extra hotel nights caused by flight or road delays
What to bring
Essential
- Insulated mountaineering boots compatible with crampons
- Crampons and a mountaineering ice axe
- Climbing harness, helmet, ascender, belay/abseil device and prusik loops
- Expedition down jacket and layered insulation for summit night
- Sleeping bag rated well below freezing (exact rating to be confirmed)
- Glacier glasses, high-factor sun protection and headtorch
Optional and useful
- Trekking poles
- Camera with spare batteries (cold drains them quickly)
- Solar charger or power bank
- Personal snacks and electrolyte sachets
Good to know
Important notes and restrictions
- Permits: official climbing and trekking permits are issued through the Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Department (applications normally go via a registered tour operator). TKO does not issue permits. Royalty, permit, fee and insurance rules are regulatory information that changes and must be confirmed before publication.
- Secondary sources (CKNP visitor information, ExplorersWeb, operator pages) indicate peaks below 6,500 m have generally needed a trekking permit/fee rather than a full mountaineering permit with royalty and liaison officer. Sources conflict; confirm the current rule with the GB Tourism Department.
- Insurance: travellers would need cover that explicitly includes mountaineering at this altitude and helicopter rescue in Pakistan; generic travel cover usually does not. Confirm current requirements before publication.
- Naltar includes military facilities; access rules for foreign visitors should be confirmed.
Route and region
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