Expedition
Hushe valley, Khaplu
Laila Peak
- Duration
- 22 days
- Highest point
- 6,096 m
- Difficulty
- Very demanding
- Season
- Jun–Aug
Price to be confirmed
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Expedition · Hunza
Ladyfinger Peak (Bublimating)
The slender granite needle above central Hunza, about 6,000 m high. A serious technical rock climb with a demanding alpine approach.
- Duration
- 16 days
- Highest point
- 6,000 m
- Difficulty
- Very demanding
- Season
- June–September
- Price
- Price to be confirmed
Photo: Unknown author · CC BY-SA 4.0
Overview
Ladyfinger, known locally as Bublimating or Bubli Motin, is the granite needle beside Ultar Sar above Karimabad and Altit. It is one of the most photographed mountain shapes in Hunza.
Patrick Cordier and Jacques Maurin made the first ascent in 1982, and the East Ridge is described as the easiest route. Sources describe roughly 600 m of steep rock above a very serious alpine approach. This is technical rock climbing for experienced alpinists, not a trekking peak.
- Hunza's most recognisable granite needle
- Roughly 600 m of steep rock near the summit, per sources
- Base in central Hunza with its forts and villages
Itinerary
Days 1–2
Islamabad: briefing and travel to Gilgit
Timing varies with flights, road and weather conditions.
Day 3
Drive to Karimabad, Hunza
Days 4–5
Acclimatisation walks around Hunza
Days 6–7
Approach to base camp
Route and camp to be confirmed by specialists.
Days 8–9
Acclimatisation and route reconnaissance
Days 10–13
Climbing window and weather/reserve days
Day 14
Descend to Karimabad
Day 15
Drive to Gilgit
Day 16
Return to Islamabad
Flight or road, subject to weather.
Practical information
- Objective
- Ladyfinger Peak (Bublimating) (6,000 m)
- Experience required
- Extensive technical alpine rock climbing experience
- Experience of serious, objectively hazardous alpine approaches
- Previous expedition experience at altitude
- Suitable for
- Mountaineers
What’s included
Included
- Sample support/logistics concept: ground transport and jeeps, base-camp logistics, cook/kitchen team, porters for the approach, and permit paperwork handled through a registered operator
Not included
- Climbing/trekking permit fees and any royalty (paid to the GB Tourism Department)
- Personal climbing equipment
- Insurance including mountaineering and helicopter rescue cover
- International flights and Pakistan visa
- Technical climbing rack and ropes (team-supplied in this concept)
What to bring
Essential
- Rock shoes plus approach and mountaineering boots
- Harness, helmet, belay/abseil devices and personal anchor system
- Team technical rack and ropes, agreed with the climbing team in advance
- Crampons and ice axe for snow and glacier sections of the approach
- Portaledge or bivouac gear where the planned route requires it
- Sleeping bag rated well below freezing (exact rating to be confirmed)
Optional and useful
- Trekking poles
- Camera with spare batteries (cold drains them quickly)
- Solar charger or power bank
- Personal snacks and electrolyte sachets
Good to know
Important notes and restrictions
- Permits: official climbing and trekking permits are issued through the Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Department (applications normally go via a registered tour operator). TKO does not issue permits. Royalty, permit, fee and insurance rules are regulatory information that changes and must be confirmed before publication.
- Secondary sources (CKNP visitor information, ExplorersWeb, operator pages) indicate peaks below 6,500 m have generally needed a trekking permit/fee rather than a full mountaineering permit with royalty and liaison officer. Sources conflict; confirm the current rule with the GB Tourism Department.
- Insurance: travellers would need cover that explicitly includes mountaineering at this altitude and helicopter rescue in Pakistan; generic travel cover usually does not. Confirm current requirements before publication.
- Technical rock objective with a serious approach: not suitable as a general guided expedition product without specialist review.
Route and region
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