Expedition
Hushe valley, Khaplu
Laila Peak
- Duration
- 22 days
- Highest point
- 6,096 m
- Difficulty
- Very demanding
- Season
- Jun–Aug
Price to be confirmed
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Expedition · Baltoro, Shigar, Skardu
Mitre Peak
The distinctive pointed peak above Concordia, about 6,000 m high, with a single widely accepted ascent. A threshold-height research candidate.
- Duration
- 25 days
- Highest point
- 6,010 m
- Difficulty
- Very demanding
- Season
- June–August
- Price
- Price to be confirmed
Photo: Sallahuddin shah · CC BY-SA 4.0
Overview
Mitre Peak is the sharp, mitre-shaped summit that dominates the view from Concordia, where the Baltoro and Godwin-Austen glaciers meet. Photographers on the K2 trek know it well, but very few climbers have stood on top.
Sources credit a solo ascent in 1980 by Ivano Ghirardini. SummitPost notes that the wider ascent history is controversial because of unpermitted attempts. It is a technical, rarely climbed objective rather than an established expedition peak.
- The iconic summit above Concordia
- The full Baltoro approach with views of K2 and the Gasherbrums
- One of the rarest summits in this research set
Itinerary
Days 1–2
Islamabad: briefing and onward travel to Skardu
Timing varies with flights, road and weather conditions.
Day 3
Skardu: preparation and equipment check
Day 4
Jeep through Shigar to Askole
Days 5–11
Trek up the Baltoro Glacier to Concordia, including acclimatisation days
A photo source places Concordia at about 4,745 m.
Highest point: 4,745 m
Days 12–14
Base camp near Concordia: rest and reconnaissance
Days 15–20
Acclimatisation, route preparation and summit window with weather/reserve days
Days 21–24
Trek out to Askole (or via Gondogoro La if conditions allow) and drive to Skardu
Day 25
Return to Islamabad
Flight or road, subject to weather.
Practical information
- Objective
- Mitre Peak (6,010 m)
- Experience required
- Advanced alpine mountaineering experience on steep snow, ice and mixed ground
- Previous Karakoram or Himalayan expedition experience
- Suitable for
- Mountaineers
What’s included
Included
- Sample support/logistics concept: ground transport and jeeps, base-camp logistics, cook/kitchen team, porters for the approach, and permit paperwork handled through a registered operator
Not included
- Climbing/trekking permit fees and any royalty (paid to the GB Tourism Department)
- Personal climbing equipment
- Insurance including mountaineering and helicopter rescue cover
- International flights and Pakistan visa
- Technical climbing equipment (team-supplied in this concept)
What to bring
Essential
- Insulated mountaineering boots compatible with crampons
- Crampons and a mountaineering ice axe
- Climbing harness, helmet, ascender, belay/abseil device and prusik loops
- Expedition down jacket and layered insulation for summit night
- Sleeping bag rated well below freezing (exact rating to be confirmed)
- Glacier glasses, high-factor sun protection and headtorch
Optional and useful
- Trekking poles
- Camera with spare batteries (cold drains them quickly)
- Solar charger or power bank
- Personal snacks and electrolyte sachets
- Light rock and ice protection, agreed with the climbing team
Good to know
Important notes and restrictions
- Permits: official climbing and trekking permits are issued through the Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Department (applications normally go via a registered tour operator). TKO does not issue permits. Royalty, permit, fee and insurance rules are regulatory information that changes and must be confirmed before publication.
- Secondary sources (CKNP visitor information, ExplorersWeb, operator pages) indicate peaks below 6,500 m have generally needed a trekking permit/fee rather than a full mountaineering permit with royalty and liaison officer. Sources conflict; confirm the current rule with the GB Tourism Department.
- Insurance: travellers would need cover that explicitly includes mountaineering at this altitude and helicopter rescue in Pakistan; generic travel cover usually does not. Confirm current requirements before publication.
- Central Karakoram National Park: secondary sources describe a core zone (including the Baltoro and the Hushe approaches) needing a park/trekking permit, registered porters and guides, and no solo travel. Confirm current rules.
- Threshold height (~6,010 m) and a contested ascent record: needs specialist assessment before any product use.
Route and region
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